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make! With a flattering and obsequious bow our guide leads the way.
The palace was built by the Knights as their regal residence, and as
everything in it has been most religiously preserved, the various rooms will
present a pretty fair picture of the manner of life of these soldier priests,
whose portraits adorns the walls around. To the frame of each a metal label is
attached, on which is an inscription in Latin, setting forth the patronymic
and virtues of the original. Some are represented in military armour with bold
martial air, whilst others are depicted in the more peaceful garb of priests,
or civilians, but all wear the sash and cross, peculiar to the Order, the
latter symbol known as the Maltese Cross being found on all their coins and
possessions.
Out of the portrait gallery folding doors admit us to the Parliament House,
where the Government officials assemble for the conduct of State business. The
four walls are enriched and adorned with wonderful specimens of needlework,
testifying to the patience and skill of the knights' fair friends.
But the most interesting place of all is the armoury, a vast hall at right
angles to the picture gallery, in which are weapons and arms of all sizes,
workmanship, and ages; [36]from the light rapier and fencing helmet for
friendly practice, to the two-handed sword and iron casque of thirty pounds
weight, for the more deadly strife. Some highly interesting relics are here,
too, the original document whereby Charles V. tendered the island to the
Knights a consumptive looking cannon with very large touch-holes and very
small bores stone shot, iron shot, lead balls, all arranged in neat designs.
Suits of armour of delicate filigree work, in silver and gold, in glass cases;
other suits less costly, though of equal ingenuity, ranged along the walls in
erect positions, spear in hand, or leaning on a huge sword. From the size and
weight of some of these suits, I opine, the Knights must have been men of
large build, a medium sized suit being rather the exception than otherwise.
After a glance at the old, lumbering State carriage of Bonaparte, with its
faded, gilded trappings and armorial emblazonry, we haste away to view
something else.
Next in importance to the Palace, comes the Church of St. John (San Giovanni),
by far the finest building in Malta. The interior is very gorgeous, with
gilded vaulted roof, finely carved pulpits, rare old crimson tapestries and
monumental floor, resembling one enormous heraldic shield. Beneath, lie the
mouldering remains of the defunct knights, the arms of each being represented
on the slabs above them, in the most delicate and accurate designs, in some
cases stones more rare and costly than marble being used.
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At the end of the eastern aisle is the Chapel of the Madonna, guarded by
massive silver bars, saved from the rapacity of Napoleon's soldiers by the
cunning and [37]ingenuity of a priest, who, perceiving that Bony's followers
had very loose ideas of mine and thine, painted the rails wood colour, and
thus preserved them inviolate.
Once more in busy, bustling, Strada Reale, with its gay shops filled with a
tempting display of gold and silver filigree work, corals and laces, the
latter very fine specimens of needlework indeed.
Thus far, we have performed all our movements on foot, but now, as we have to
go a rather long distance over very uninteresting ground, we think it more
convenient to sling our legs over a horse's back, for the journey to Civita
Vecchia, better known to sailors as "Chivity-Vic." This was the former capital
of the island, though now, as deserted almost as Babylon, its streets
overgrown with grass, its buildings crumbling ruins, and echoing to the tread
of our horses' hoofs. But it is not so much to view these ruins that I have
brought you here, as to visit the Catacombs, or subterranean burying grounds
of the early inhabitants. These are not much compared with those at Naples, or
Palermo, for instance, but to those who have seen neither the one nor the
other, they will present all the charm of novelty. Though only a charnel house
it is laid out with great care, in street, square, and alley, just like the
abodes of men above. The bodies are mostly in a fine state of preservation,
reposing in niches cut out of the dry earth, some of the tombs being double,
others, again, having an additional crib for a child. It is next to impossible
that organic matter can fall to decay, owing to the extreme dryness of the
place, and, except that the colour has changed a little, the dead people
around would have no difficulty in [38]recognizing their own faces again if
brought suddenly to life. Some of the bodies seem actually alive, a deception
further borne out by their being clothed in the very garments they wore when [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]

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